Three questions for Salomé, setter at Monsieur Paris.
Having just graduated in jewelry, Salomé joins the Monsieur Paris atelier team in September 2022. Precise, meticulous and unfailingly patient, she is responsible for sublimating some of our models by inlaying precious stones. A true goldsmith's work... which she shares with us in this interview.
What does your job involve?
Setting is the art of attaching precious stones to a piece of jewelry using a metal that must be folded over to ensure a firm hold. At Monsieur Paris, we work exclusively with 18-carat gold and 925 silver. I adorn rings, earrings, bracelets... with diamonds, tourmaline or opal. So I'm the guarantor of their good looks and respect for aesthetics.
What are the different types of crimp?
There is a whole variety, the most common of which are the crimps, the clos and the griffe. For example, the clos is widely used in jewelry. It surrounds the stone with metal, providing a secure hold. The choice of technique is an important step, depending on the desired effect and the gem to be worked. Some of them, like emeralds, are very fragile. I like to find solutions... for me, nothing is impossible, but you always have to consider the reliability and longevity of the setting.
What are the steps involved in making a piece of jewelry?
Let's take the example of Monsieur's twisted Olympe ring: to begin, I twist a round wire in 18-carat gold, measuring it to weld it to the correct finger size. Next, I attach a bezel - the protruding part of the ring above the band - which will accommodate the gemstone thanks to a claw setting. Then I finish by polishing the jewel so that it shines. Designing this model takes me around twenty minutes, three of which are dedicated to the setting.
